Hyaluronic Acid: Your Complete Guide to the Hydrating Skin Care Ingredient
Hyaluronic acid, an active ingredient in skin care products, is known for its hydrating abilities. Found in serums, cleansers, moisturizers, and more, hyaluronic acid not only moisturizes the skin, but also minimizes signs of aging, since fine lines and wrinkles are less visible on plump, hydrated skin.
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring group of sugar molecules that provides cushion and lubrication to the body’s connective tissues.
Technically, it’s a group of sugar molecules called polysaccharides. These molecules work to cushion and lubricate, and they’re found naturally in the body’s connective tissues.
Over time, your body’s stores of hyaluronic acid decline. Age is one reason, but environmental factors — such as smoking and air pollution — also accelerate this process. That’s the bad news.
The good news is that topical products that feature hyaluronic acid, whether as part of the ingredients list in a moisturizer or as the star of a serum, can help rebuild those depleted stores, says Bonnie Gasquet, MD, an internal medicine physician at Studio Health Medical Spa in Belle Chasse, Louisiana.
Shari Marchbein, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in private practice in New York City, says, “Hyaluronic acid attracts and binds to water molecules and increases the water content of the skin.” It can absorb more than 1,000 times its weight in water, she adds.
The key benefit of hyaluronic acid is hydration and its ability to retain moisture. Dehydrated skin, which occurs when the top layer of skin doesn’t have enough water, appears dry, rough, and flaky, says Dr. Marchbein. Beyond aesthetics, dry skin can be unhealthy.
“Poorly hydrated skin is unable to maintain an appropriately intact skin barrier, leaving the skin more vulnerable to damage from external and environmental sources,” says Marchbein. When the skin barrier isn’t intact, it can let bacteria in, which can lead to infection. Compromised skin barriers can also play a role in many skin conditions, including dry skin, atopic dermatitis, rosacea, and acne.
“Skin hydration is important because hydrated skin looks more plump, healthier, and more vibrant,” says Marchbein. Hydrated skin looks younger, too. Skin aging is associated with loss of skin moisture, and hyaluronic acid can help combat or reverse these signs. “Because of its water-pulling qualities, hyaluronic acid can refine and age-rewind in those dry, sunken, or ‘crepe’ areas,” says Dr. Gasquet.
Gasquet recommends applying products with hyaluronic acid, especially during the winter when the skin tends to be at its driest. But even those who aren’t battling dryness can benefit from adding hyaluronic acid to their skin care routine. Kenneth Rothaus, MD, a board-certified plastic surgeon with Rothaus Plastic Surgery in New York City, says hyaluronic acid is responsible for giving the skin a healthy glow.
Marchbein recommends a hyaluronic-packed moisturizer for people of all ages. “It is never too early to start a good skin care routine,” she says.
There are three types of hyaluronic acid:
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is hyaluronic acid that has been broken down into elements small enough to penetrate the skin, Gasquet says. It’s moisturizing, but not the most moisturizing option, so it’s best for people who have oily or combination skin, since these skin types want to avoid over-moisturizing.
Sodium hyaluronate goes deeper into the skin and delivers even better results, though the effects aren’t very long-lasting, Gasquet says. “Sodium hyaluronate is best for people who have normal skin because it will allow moisture to seep in, but you don’t really need a heavy-duty, long-lasting effect.” This is the ingredient you’ll likely find in serums.
Sodium acetylated hyaluronate has the benefits of sodium hyaluronate but with longer-lasting results. It’s best for people who need moisture, such as those with dry skin, those who live in dry climates, or those looking for a product for the dry winter months.
Hyaluronic acid is also available in ingestible supplement form, typically a capsule filled with the active ingredient. In consuming hyaluronic acid orally, the body absorbs the ingredient into the bloodstream before it can be degraded by the digestive process, carrying it to where it’s needed. These supplements may support skin hydration, brightness, and thickness in both younger and older adults.
Hyaluronic acid is generally safe for all skin types and doesn’t typically lead to any adverse reactions when applied topically, Marchbein says.
“Hyaluronic acid is a natural substance in our skin, and as a result, one shouldn’t expect any problems,” says Dr. Rothaus. “When patients complain of rashes or other problems related to hyaluronic acid–containing products, it’s often a result of a problem with another ingredient, such as one of the preservatives.” Preservatives extend the life of a product, but some can lead to irritation.
Marchbein points out that hyaluronic acid is also found in a large number of injectable fillers, and while the ingredient itself is safe, the procedure can be risky and should only be performed by a doctor certified by the American Board of Dermatology or the American Board of Plastic Surgery.
Hyaluronic acid is a common ingredient in numerous skin care products, including:
Serums
Sheet masks
Eye creams
Moisturizers
Cleansers
Lip treatments
Before you purchase a topical product, follow these steps:
Check for Allergens and Vitamin C
Watch out for any ingredients you’re allergic to or that have caused you irritation in the past, says Gasquet.
Look for a hyaluronic acid product that also features vitamin C. The two ingredients work together to penetrate the skin more deeply, delivering the benefits of hyaluronic acid more effectively.
Look for Its Molecular Weight
When you’re searching for a product, check to see if the molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid it includes is listed, as that can indicate its overall effectiveness. Acids with lower molecular weights can more easily penetrate the skin to deliver their skin-hydrating benefits.
See if Alcohol Is Listed
Alcohol can counteract the ingredient’s moisturizing benefits.
“Isopropyl alcohol is very drying and can leave skin vulnerable to cracking, allowing skin break and possibly irritants and bacteria to enter where they don’t belong,” says Gasquet. “In addition, the ‘drying effect’ can cause the cells to become less plump, the complete reverse effect of what we want.”
She recommends looking at where alcohol appears on the ingredients list. Ingredients are listed in order of concentration, so if it’s one of the first six ingredients, the product may be drying, says Gasquet.
Avoid Fragrance
Nazanin Saedi, MD, the department cochair of the Laser and Aesthetics Surgery Center at Dermatology Associates of Plymouth Meeting in Pennsylvania, says products with added fragrance can cause irritation or breakouts in people with sensitive skin, so it’s best to steer clear. Fragrance can also lead to contact dermatitis, a skin rash that can appear minutes to days after contact with a trigger.
Don’t Shy Away From Water
Water is often the first ingredient in a hyaluronic acid product. It may seem like it’s diluting the product, but it actually helps make the hyaluronic acid more effective.
“Having a more water-based product rather than a cream, oil, or gel will allow the product to penetrate the skin more easily,” says Gasquet.
Hyaluronic acid is an active ingredient in a wide range of skin care products that’s responsible for delivering important hydration to the skin, as well as helping it retain its moisture.
Hydration and moisture retention are the biggest benefits of hyaluronic acid in skin care, helping to protect a healthy skin barrier and giving the skin a plumper, brighter, and more youthful appearance.
Since hyaluronic acid is a substance found naturally in the skin, adverse side effects to the ingredient in a skin care product are unlikely.
When integrating hyaluronic acid into your skin care routine, look for water-based products that feature hyaluronic acid with a lower molecular weight and vitamin C, but skip added fragrances and alcohol.
